Pakati pa malo odyera apamwamba ku San Francisco, "Kupita patsogolo" kuli bwino kuposa kale

Pamene adatsegula National Bird Conservation Plan mu 2011, Stuart Brioza ndi Nicole Krasinski anali akugwira ntchito kuti atsegule pulojekiti yawo yamaloto "Kupita patsogolo" m'malo akuluakulu pa Fillmore Street.Koma palinso malo ang'onoang'ono pafupi ndi khomo, kotero Mbalame ya Boma inalowamo.
Chifukwa cha zinthu zambiri, kuphatikiza malo opapatiza kukhitchini kutsogolo, adabwera ndi lingaliro lopereka chakudya chamtundu waku California monga dim sum.Operekera zakudya amakoka chipindacho ndi ngolo ndi mathireyi, zomwe zimalola odya kuti asankhe zomwe akufuna.Izi zinachititsa chidwi nthawi yomweyo, ndipo chaka chotsatira, State Bird inapambana mphoto ya James Beard ya Best New Restaurant.
Zinatenga awiriwa zaka zoposa zitatu kuti atsegule kupita patsogolo ndipo kunali koyenera kudikirira.Mu malo omwe kale anali bwalo la zisudzo, chinthu chilichonse chaganiziridwa.Khoma lomangika linavumbulidwa pamene pulasitala yakaleyo inagwetsedwa ndipo inavumbulidwa, pafupifupi ngati kuyika mwaluso luso.Mapangidwe omwewo amapindika m'malo onse odyera, mazenera a denga, m'mphepete mwa matebulo, ma handrail, ngakhale nyali.
Kuyambira pachiyambi, chakudya chamtundu uwu chinali kulolerana.Koma m'zaka zitatu zapitazi, menyu wakhala akusintha nthawi zonse.Poyambirira, odyawo anapatsidwa mitundu 17 ya zakudya, ndipo anasankha mitundu isanu ndi umodzi ya chakudya pamtengo wa $65 pa munthu aliyense.Chaka chatha, mndandandawu unaphatikizapo mitundu 14 ya zakudya, ndipo odya adasankha 4 pamtengo wa $ 62.Zolembedwa pamaso pa menyu ndi "china chake patebulo".
Masiku ano, chikhalidwe cha banja chidakalipo, koma pali zosankha zambiri, ndipo odya amatha kuitanitsa zakudya zambiri momwe amafunira.
Odya atha kugwiritsabe ntchito zolembera zolembera kuti alembe zomwe asankha pamenyu.Tsopano, pali maphunziro akuluakulu atatu omwe amagawana pakati pazakudya, ndi maphunziro akuluakulu awiri kapena asanu ndi limodzi pamaphunzirowa.Amasintha tsiku ndi tsiku, koma posachedwapa amaphatikiza paundi imodzi ya shrimp yamoyo ($ 80), batala wa m'nyanja ya grapefruit ndi mbatata yosenda.Kalulu wokazinga ndi wokazinga ($52) ndi nyama yankhumba, farro ndi persimmon;theka wowotcha bakha ($60) pamwamba ndi chiponde zokometsera, Thai Basil ndi kusuta viniga Chile.
Pa ulendo umenewu, ndinapita mbali ina.Ndinayitanitsa mbale pansi pa mutu wakuti Western Additions (Nkhono za Hog Island zokhala ndi udzu wamphesa wokazinga);yaiwisi ndi saladi;masamba ndi mbewu;ndi nsomba ndi nyama.Ngakhale chikokacho ndi saladi ya eclectic-Japanese ($ 18), kanjedza, nsomba zam'nyanja zam'madzi ndi roe.Dumplings ndi khungu la nkhumba la kimchi ($ 16);ndi nettle ndi ricotta ravioli ($ 17) ndi bowa wakuda wakuda ndi cider saba, amalumikizana bwino.
Saladi yabwino kwambiri yopangidwa kukhitchini ndi citrus yozizira ($ 15), yodulidwa ndi chunked caracalla, kumquats, oro blanco ndi malalanje, kuphatikiza masamba a chicory.Kukoma kwa saladi ya tchizi ya ricotta ndi mafuta atsopano a azitona a Nuvo kumamaliza mbale iyi.
Nsomba yaiwisi yophikidwa pang'ono imatenga nsomba za cru kuti zikhale zatsopano.Nsomba za nsomba zimakwiriridwa mu mtedza wa paini wophwanyidwa, ndalama zapapepala zopyapyala za radish, sprigs za parsley ndi zokometsera za buttermilk zowotcha za jalapeno.
M'gawo lazakudya zam'nyanja ndi nyama, muli nthiti zazifupi za ng'ombe ndi mphodza ya bowa ($28), ndi octopus (la octopus) ($31) ndi nyemba za batala, malalanje amagazi ndi magawo a kale.
Krasinski, wodziwa kuphika makeke, sakuwoneka kuti wavulazidwa chifukwa mchere wake sunawonekere pazakudya zoyambira.Pali zilumba zoyandama ($ 10) zokhala ndi coconut sorbet ndi sinamoni yowotchedwa pamwamba.Cocoa Custard ($12) ndi madonati a Earl Grey, amatumizidwa ndi ayisikilimu a hibiscus laimu.Ndimavutika kuti ndichotse mkaka wa mtedza wa State Bird ($ 3 pa botolo), womwe uli ndi kukoma kolimba kwa mtedza ndi manyuchi a musky.
1525 Fillmore St. (pafupi ndi Geary), San Francisco;(415) 673-1294 kapena www.theprogress-sf.com.Chakudya chamadzulo usiku uliwonse.
Michael Bauer wakhala akutsatira zochitika za chakudya ndi vinyo za San Francisco Chronicle kwa zaka zoposa 28.Asanagwire ntchito ku The Chronicle, anali mtolankhani komanso mkonzi wa Kansas City Star ndi Dallas Times.


Nthawi yotumiza: Mar-30-2021
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